Care Guide for Nubuck Suede Leather: Professional Cleaning and Maintenance Techniques

Nubuck suede products (shoes, bags, leather jackets...) are very popular due to their unique texture and appearance. However, their napped surface is very delicate. Improper cleaning easily causes issues: water stains, flattened nap, discoloration, or hardening. 

It is recommended to use professional hand cleaning or machine cleaning methods to ensure effective care and reduce risks. 

In this article, Kingstar will introduce the machine washing processes (industrial/professional) and hand washing processes with leather cleaners and acidic regulators.

Core Principles

● Specialized cleaners

People must use neutral or weakly acidic specialized cleaners for suede/nubuck leather. Alkali causes severe damage to leather fibers and color.

● Acids

Acids mainly refer to acidic regulators and formula softeners (before/after cleaning). They can help restore the fluffiness and texture. 

Direct use of strong acids during cleaning is strictly prohibited! People can add an acidic solution with a low concentration (less than 1%) together with an appropriate amount of softener: glacial acetic acid, stain-removing acid...

● Air-drying naturally and blow-drying with cool air (natural wind)

Direct sunlight or blow-drying with hot air should be forbidden.

Process of Machine Washing

● Pretreatment

Use a soft-bristled brush (a suede brush/toothbrush) → gently brush away surface dust and dry dirt in the direction of the nap. 

Stubborn stains (oil stains): use a specialized suede stain remover → pre-treat the affected area → follow instructions strictly

● Loading

Use a dedicated mesh bag → make sure there are no sharp objects inside the machine → add a neutral liquid cleaner specifically for nubuck suede.

- Washing program 

Water temperature: Cold or very low temperature (not over 30°C).

Water level: medium-high level

Washing time (main wash): 10-15 minutes.

Mechanical force: lowest rotation speed, gentlest action.

● Rinsing

Main wash finishes → drain water (do not spin-dry) → refill with cold water to a medium-high level → run a rinse cycle at the lowest rotation speed for 1-2 minutes → spin-dry at 400 rpm for 1 minute.

Final rinse: 

Use a high water level → add a small amount of nubuck suede-specific acidic regulator and an appropriate amount of softener → run the cycle for 1-3 minutes → perform a high-speed spin-dry for 5 minutes → remove the items immediately.

Never leave wet nubuck suede products inside the machine.

● Manual water absorption

Use a clean, non-fading microfiber cloth/sponge → gently press → absorb excess moisture. (Do not wring/rub!)

● Shaping

Reshape the leather products back to their original form → lay them flat or hang them to dry with the cool air setting of a shoe dryer. 

People should avoid direct sunlight and heat sources when reshaping the leather products.

● Nap restoration

fully dry → use a suede brush or a dedicated brush → gently comb along the direction of the nap → restore fluffiness.

Also, people can use a nubuck suede restorer/conditioner. It usually has ingredients like silicone oil, which enhances color vibrancy to improve stain resistance and restores texture.

Process of Hand Washing

- Method 1 (Without a Foaming Machine)

● Dust Removal

Use a soft-bristled brush (a suede brush/clean toothbrush) → gently and thoroughly brush away all surface dust and loose dirt in the direction of the nap. (an important step.)

● Local Stain Removal (If Needed)

For local stains (oil stains, fruit juice stains), use a specialized suede stain remover.

● Overall Cleaning

Prepare the cleaning solution: Dilute the neutral suede-specific cleaner with cold water in a small container according to the instructions. (better to make it a bit diluted than too concentrated)

Tools: a clean soft-bristled brush/wire brush.

Cleaning operation:

Leather cleaner diluted to a 1% concentration → dip the tool into a small amount of it → gently and quickly brush the entire surface in the direction of the nap (avoid over-wetting the leather.) → finish cleaning a small section → use another clean, slightly damp (wring out excess water) white cotton cloth or microfiber cloth → gently wipe in the direction of the nap (absorb dirt and excess cleaning solution) → frequently switch to a clean area of the cloth and work section by section → never let the cleaning solution dry on the leather surface.

● Rinsing/Residue Removal

Finish cleaning the entire surface → quickly rinse it under running tap water to remove any residual cleaner → wrap it in a clean towel to absorb water for 1 minute → use a clean, dry, highly absorbent white towel or a large amount of microfiber cloths to gently press against the leather surface → soak up as much moisture as possible. (Do not rub!)

● Shaping

Reshape the leather product back to its original form → lay it flat or hang it to dry using the cool air setting on a shoe dryer. (Avoid direct sunlight and heat.)

● Nap Restoration

Fully dry → use a suede brush/dedicated brush to gently comb in the direction of the nap to restore fluffiness.

People can use a suede restorer/conditioner (with ingredients like silicone oil, which enhances color vibrancy, improves stain resistance, and restores the leather’s texture).

- Method 2 (With a Foaming Machine)

● Dust Removal

Use a soft-bristled brush (a suede brush/clean toothbrush) to gently and thoroughly brush away all surface dust and loose dirt in the direction of the nap. (an important step)

● Local Stain Removal (If Needed)

For local stains (oil stains, fruit juice stains), use a specialized suede stain remover.

● Overall Cleaning

Prepare the cleaning solution: In a small container, dilute the neutral suede-specific cleaner with cold water according to the instructions (better to make it a bit dilute than too concentrated). Then pour it into the foaming machine.

Use the foaming machine to spray the foam onto the leather surface → use a soft brush to gently and quickly brush the entire surface in the direction of the nap. (Avoid over-wetting the leather.) → finish cleaning a small section → use another clean, slightly damp (wring out excess water) white cotton cloth or microfiber cloth → gently wipe in the direction of the nap to absorb dirt and excess cleaning solution → frequently switch to a clean area of the cloth and work section by section → never let the cleaning solution dry on the leather surface.

● Rinsing/Residue Removal

Finish cleaning the entire surface → quickly rinse it under running tap water to remove any residual cleaner → wrap it in a clean towel to absorb water for 1 minute → use a clean, dry, highly absorbent white towel or a large amount of microfiber cloths → gently press against the leather surface → soak up as much moisture as possible. (Do not rub!)

● Shaping

Reshape the leather product back to its original form → lay it flat or hang it to dry using the cool air setting on a shoe dryer. (Avoid direct sunlight and heat.)

● Nap Restoration

Fully dry → use a suede brush or a dedicated brush to gently comb in the direction of the nap to restore fluffiness. People can use a suede restorer/conditioner (ingredients like silicone oil, which enhances color vibrancy, improves stain resistance, and restores the leather’s texture).

Conclusion

Cleaning nubuck suede requires care. Hand washing is safer and more controllable. Machine washing is recommended to be done by professionals with appropriate equipment. Regardless of the method used, people must use a specialized neutral cleaner, control the water temperature, thoroughly remove residual detergent, do a small-area test before formal operation, and strictly follow the principles: air-drying in the shade, drying with cool air, and post-cleaning nap grooming.